We began on Golding’s Hill, at Broadstrood car park, where we met a man and a woman with a dog and a parrot. They were celebrating the parrot’s first birthday by taking it for a walk in the forest, in a transparent backpack with good views of the trees. We wished it many happy returns, then stretched our wings and flew off down the hill, along Green Ride.
At the bottom we stepped off the wide track and turned right to follow a winding path through the beech and hornbeam, along the stream then climbing up into the magic woods of Hangboy Slade… (A “slade” is the local dialect name for a wet valley. No boy was ever hung here though. “Hangboy” is from the French “haut bois” meaning high wood – Hornbeam Arts)
Another day we came this way and I could’ve sworn we found ourselves in a secluded dell surrounded by overhanging beech trees, each with its own rope swing. A little arena of stopped pendulums. But today it had disappeared and we were in another place, in these shapeshifting woods.
Slow rapids
We crossed a footbridge and looped back along Williams Ride, climbing steeply uphill, looking for signs to tell us we were back on the right track.
Quickening light
Back on the Green Ride and there’s the dangling remains of a rope swing.
We’d walked this loop before, and at the bottom of the hill is where, walking towards us, we’d earlier turned right to follow the winding path along the stream, but this time round it was the first loop in a figure-of-eight. This time we turned right and followed a winding path along the stream in the opposite direction, along a path we’d never taken before, along Tippa Burn.
I don’t know how it got that name, it doesn’t appear particularly Scottish, but it runs rust-coloured red down from Jack’s Hill bog.
And quick, look, here! A lizard! Ah, but too late, it’s gone to ground.
Pollard hornbeams dance in an open glade, like multi-armed Hindu gods.
And an ancient oak rotates under my gaze, off the beaten track, we’ve not met before, our eyes only for each other, as I circle under its watchful stare.
Another turnaround tree.
All around the ancient oak my head goes in a spin; this newfound gnarly-crusted capstan tree turns me round and winds me in. I’m caught in its web.
Others gather round to watch. It’s a small group of dancing oaks. I’m lucky to find them, we’re not on any path, just following a stream that seems to have disappeared and left us turning in circles under tributary trees.
It’s a lowly dusty place, an underwood undercroft, it reminds me of forgotten childhood dreams, a submerged place of refuge and sanctuary, but then as we climb it becomes a more familiar zone of pollard beech trees, a forest cathedral of pillars and columns and shafts of filtered light.
Home Sweet Home
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As you’ve walked in Epping over the years I am interested to know if the carved names have been there long and become part of your navigating? Always good to vicariously have a walk when I wake as you post early, Susie X
Some of the carvings are ancient, it might be good to catalogue them one day, but they change all the time. I’d never seen the Conca Domnica mermaid before. It made me wonder if Jonny Hannah had been for a walk in the woods recently.
It’s good to know there are mermaids in the woods but I guess they are amphibious as they need to get from pond and stream to tree.
Roger Deakin suggested that walking in the wood was like walking on the seabed – Wildwood
We were there yesterday, your blog captures the atmosphere perfectly. Do you know what the stone structure is just behind the Broadstrood carpark? Some kind of water tank?
Thanks Mike, I always imagined it must be the remains of an old well, until I looked inside one day and realised it doesn’t descend very far at all! Your guess is as good as mine. Let’s ask next time we’re in the Visitor Centre.
Thanks, I searched and found a photo of the information board there …
https://goo.gl/maps/zCDcY1KoLbURbSwD6
Could the remains be something to do with the old forest keepers lodge or timber yard that was sited there? Might check out the oldmaps website for clues
I think you might be onto something